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Just two hours from Paris, the Château de Vault-de-Lugny offers a gourmet escape where history and starred cuisine elegantly converge. It’s an invitation to relish every moment in the heart of Burgundy.
I was invited to leave the hustle and bustle of Paris for a weekend at the Château de Vault-de-Lugny. Always eager for new experiences, I ventured to the Yonne to discover this 12th-century castle, its idyllic setting, and most importantly… its Michelin-starred dining. Here’s a glimpse into 24 hours out of time.
Upon arriving in Burgundy, in the village of Vault-de-Lugny, the nearby Chablis vineyards and the hills of the Yonne beckon for leisurely strolls among forests and country lanes. The castle’s medieval charm is immediately striking. Built in 1120, it stands proudly, surrounded by water-filled moats, resembling a vibrant fortress. The estate spans 70 hectares featuring meadows, woods, and gardens, dominated by a three-hundred-year-old plane tree, guardian of the grounds. Goats, sheep, a horse, and elegant white peacocks add to the charm. I was told that baby peacocks had just been born, a rare event not seen in 15 years. Surely a sign: the weekend promises to be majestic.
With its 16 rooms, the 5-star establishment emphasizes intimacy and authenticity. Owners Elisabeth Bourzeix and her husband Pascal have restored this historically rich château and operate it with passion, as true artisans of hospitality. Each room uniquely blends tradition and modernity: period fireplaces, original flooring and woodwork, high French-style ceilings, toile de Jouy, or floral drapes. The Roy room, in particular, recalls its prestigious past, having hosted the Kings of France.
In the afternoon, a stroll through the vast park instantly transports you to another world. After climbing the 13th-century keep, visitors can enjoy fishing in the clear waters of the Cousin river, where rainbow trout thrive. A walk in the fresh air works up an appetite – just in time for dinner… and what a dinner it is.
Dinner is at Le Valucien restaurant, situated in an annex with a panoramic view of the surrounding fauna and flora. The atmosphere, modern and warm, was designed by the same decorator as Troisgros – Le Bois sans Feuilles, the owner notes. At the table, Mauritian chef Franco Bowanee offers a modern cuisine enhanced with a touch of exoticism. After 17 years at Château de Vault-de-Lugny, he has earned a Michelin star, which he proudly maintains with his brigade, predominantly composed of women.
The menu features local products or those from short supply chains. A Kumato tomato from Morvan, dressed with a basil and bell pepper cream, starts the meal, accompanied by a fresh and surprising tomato water. This is followed by precise and elegant dishes: seared bluefin tuna, red mullet, and pigeon breast supreme. The meal is perfectly complemented by Burgundy wines. My favorite? A subtle land-sea pairing that exquisitely showcases carefully selected ingredients: just-seared Mediterranean langoustines with fresh almonds, enhanced by just the right amount of verbena and a cream of serrano. A dish I will long remember.
Another highlight is the dessert: a reimagined mille-feuille with Madagascar vanilla, wrapped in a thin meringue shell. Created by the talented Karina Laval, Michelin-starred in the 2019 guide, she is among the exclusive circle of 33 women to have received a Michelin star.
After dinner, returning to your room, the flavors of the meal still tantalizing the taste buds. In this historically rich setting, tranquility invites relaxation, while the castle seems to watch over its guests. In the morning, swallows swoop around their nest against the window, and the surrounding nature gently envelops the new day. Breakfast is enjoyed in an intimate room overlooking the courtyard, with homemade and local products offered buffet-style next to an imposing fireplace. To extend the escape, one can enjoy a moment in the heated indoor pool and its jacuzzi, nestled in a vaulted cellar made of Burgundy stone.
For the curious, the region unfolds like a treasure: wander through medieval villages with cobbled streets, climb up to the basilica of Vézelay or the abbey of Fontenay, both UNESCO World Heritage sites, bike through the Chablis and Irancy vineyards, or follow the trails of the GR 13 through green hills and breathtaking panoramas.
As the end of summer approaches, if the prospect of a rejuvenating weekend in the fall appeals to you, note that the Château organizes a truffle hunt during this season. Accompanied by truffle-hunting dogs, gourmets explore the undergrowth in search of the black diamond. And while the eyes feast on the changing colors of nature, every moment reminds that beauty and gastronomy blend here.
The weekend comes to an end, and it’s time to depart, carrying with me a sweet scent of history, nature, and gastronomy.
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