When Provence Meets Pastis: A Tale of Culinary Duality
When someone mentions “pastis,” images of a sunny Marseille bar, a drink in hand, surrounded by the sounds of cicadas and pétanque players, might come to mind. In Provence, this spirit, a variant of absinthe, is a staple of the aperitif culture. Made popular by Paul Ricard in 1932 in Marseille, the “jaune,” as locals call it, is noted for its distinctive anise flavor derived from star anise and green anise. With an alcohol content between 40% and 45%, it turns milky and opaque when water is added, a phenomenon known as “louching” or the louche effect.
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While the origins of pastis might not seem controversial, another French region claims its invention: the Landes! Needless to say, the Mediterraneans are up in arms. However, as unbelievable as it may seem, their rivals from the Southwest are correct. They’re just not talking about the same thing…
Indeed, in the Landes region, “pastis” is also the name of a traditional cake. This dense yet meltingly tender brioche, flavored with vanilla, rum, anise, or orange blossom, dates back to the 17th century—long before the alcoholic beverage was concocted. In the Gascon language, pastis simply means “pastry.”
Although its recipe is closely guarded, @aurore.cookbooks managed to find a historical recipe and shared it on Instagram:
“Start by making a leaven with a quarter of the flour, 18 grams of yeast, and water. Prepare a syrup with 200 grams of sugar, half a glass of orange blossom water, a quarter glass of rum, and the zest of one lemon, warming it gently without boiling. In a separate bowl, take 500 grams of flour, create a well, add salt, five eggs, and blend with some of the syrup; knead to give the dough body, make another well and add the remaining liquid; work the dough again, adding a little warm water if it’s too stiff, until it is soft: then incorporate 200 grams of melted warm butter, add the leaven last, and let the dough rest in a warm place until the next day. Then put into charlotte molds filled halfway, let rise until three-quarters full, and bake in a gentle oven.” Imagine indulging in pastis for breakfast without moderation…
Both in Provence and the Landes, pastis tells a story of locality, tradition, and social warmth. Whether served golden in a glass or baked into a brioche, it embodies the French art of living: rich, aromatic, and deeply rooted in regional traditions. So, drink or cake? It hardly matters, as both forms of pastis are best enjoyed in good company and without taking life too seriously!
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